There are some travel experiences that stay with you long after you’ve returned home – where the morning mist, ancient traditions, and incredible flavors create an unforgettable day. Our exploration of the culinary treasures of Beaujolais was exactly that kind of experience.
This intimate culinary adventure was an upgraded excursion offered by Viking River Cruises during our journey along the Rhône from Lyon to Avignon. While the standard excursions are excellent, this special outing promised – and delivered – an extraordinary glimpse into French rural life and gastronomy.
Into the Mountain Mist
We left Lyon early on a May morning, our small group winding through increasingly narrow country roads. As our vehicle climbed higher into the hills between Beaujolais and Burgundy, we found ourselves literally driving through clouds. The mist grew thicker with each switchback, creating an ethereal atmosphere that set the tone for our day of French gastronomy.
As we wound our way to a goat farm, we stopped to take in the dramatic limestone slope of the Rock of Solutré. This ancient rock formation rises dramatically from the vineyards below, its distinctive profile a testament to millions of years of geological history. The site holds special significance not just for its striking appearance, but for the prehistoric artifacts discovered here that gave their name to an entire period of human history – the Solutrean period of the Upper Paleolithic. Standing there, gazing up at this natural monument through the morning mist, we could easily understand why this is a “Grand Site de France.”
Les P’tis Bilounes: A Mountain Cheese Story
Our first gastronomy stop was Les P’tis Bilounes, a women-owned goat farm nestled high in the misty mountains. Here, tradition meets dedication in the creation of exceptional chèvre. The farmer still mills by hand each morning before heading to local markets and restaurants with her prized cheeses. Though the drizzly weather kept the goats inside during our visit, we were treated to a tasting that opened my eyes to the complexity of goat cheese.
The highlight was trying an aged goat cheese – a first for me. The aging process transforms the familiar tangy fresh chèvre into something entirely different, with complex flavors that develop over time. Each cheese we tasted told its own story of the terroir and the careful hands that crafted it. After purchasing goat milk soap to take home, we made our way to lunch with a truffle farmer.
The Truffle Hunter’s Paradise
Descending slightly from the cheese farm, we arrived at Oliver Devevre’s truffle farm. Oliver, a former researcher in Switzerland who studied mycology, greeted us warmly before introducing us to the star of the show – Maestro, his trusted truffle-hunting dog. We watched in amazement as this four-legged expert methodically searched the soil for Burgundy black truffles, these “diamonds of the kitchen” that command such respect in French gastronomy.
We weren’t quite visiting during truffle season, but Maestro still found quite a few. Oliver explained that the deeper the truffle grows, the better its flavor, and Maestro seemed to understand the importance of his work. The connection between man and dog, honed through years of working together, was remarkable to witness.
A Feast at the Farmer’s Table
After the truffle hunting demonstration, Oliver invited us into his home, where he’d been preparing our lunch since early that morning. The aromas greeting us hinted at the feast to come. What followed was a meal that could only exist in the French countryside – a hearty beef stew simmered in local wine, served with bulgar wheat and vegetables fresh from Oliver’s garden. The bread was still warm, fresh out of the oven. And the cheese, a Brillat-Savarin, was studded with black truffles that made every bite extraordinary. For dessert, Oliver served a chocolate mousse with a whisper of truffle, paired with wine and coffee.
Château de Poncie: A Medieval Finale
Our final stop was the majestic Château de Poncie, an estate whose history stretches back to 949. Robin, the château’s manager, led us through their story of wine-making tradition and modern innovation. Through the clearing mist, we could now see the meticulous work of vineyard workers pruning leaves away from precious grape clusters, encouraging them toward the sunlight.
Between the rows of Gamay grapes, a carpet of wheat, clover, and wild poppies created a stunning tapestry – not just beautiful, but purposeful. This biodiversity, Robin explained, enriches their volcanic soil and strengthens their vines.
A Taste of Time
Looking back, what strikes me most about this day wasn’t just the extraordinary food and wine – though both were incredible. It was the sense of timelessness, of traditions passed down through generations and carefully preserved. From the careful hands of the goat farmer to Oliver’s truffle expertise to the ancient cellars of Château de Poncie, we witnessed a way of life that honors both the land and the palate.
In our fast-paced world, there’s something profound about spending a day with people who understand that some things – like the hunt for the perfect truffle or the aging of a fine cheese – simply can’t be rushed. As we made our way back to our ship in Lyon, the taste of truffle cheese still lingering, I felt incredibly fortunate to have experienced this slice of French life, where time moves at the pace of good food and fine wine.
Travel Notes: This excursion was an optional upgrade during our Viking River Cruise along the Rhône from Lyon to Avignon. For those considering this journey, I highly recommend this particular excursion for its intimate look into French rural life and cuisine. Special thanks to our knowledgeable guide Simon, truffle farmer Oliver Devevre, the welcoming proprietor of Les P’tis Bilounes, and the staff at Château de Poncie for an unforgettable day in the French countryside
