Most of us are familiar with the pretty pastel sandwich cookies that have taken over pastry shops worldwide. But there’s a simpler, more traditional version with centuries of history behind it. I’m talking about the original French macaron, the humble ancestor that started it all, hiding in the charming medieval town of Saint-Émilion.
The True Original Macaron
The traditional Saint-Émilion macaron dates back to 1620, when Ursuline nuns began creating these simple delicacies within their convent walls. Unlike their colorful Parisian relatives, these macarons are modest in appearance, almost like a cracker. Traditional macarons are small, round cookies with a crackly surface, golden-brown color, almond-rich flavor, and the most amazing chewy texture that’ll have you reaching for seconds (and thirds … no judgement here!)
What makes these macarons special is their beautiful simplicity. Traditional macarons are made with just three ingredients: almonds, sugar, and egg whites.The recipe has remained virtually unchanged for over 400 years, passed down through generations of dedicated bakers who understood that perfection needs no embellishment.
Where to Find These Sweet Treasures
The most famous purveyor of authentic Saint-Émilion macarons is Nadia Fermigier’s shop, “Les Macarons de Saint-Émilion,” located on Rue Guadet in the town center. The Fermigier family has been making these treats since 1930, following the original recipe from the Ursuline nuns.
The charming shop often has lines of eager customers extending down the street. Inside, macarons are carefully packaged in their signature boxes – making them perfect souvenirs to bring home and share (if they last that long!).
While other patisseries in town offer their own versions, the Fermigier shop remains the gold standard for those seeking the most authentic experience.
My Personal Macaron Morning
I had the incredible opportunity to visit Fabrique de Macarons while on a Bordeaux press trip for The Travel Bite, and it’s an experience I’ll never forget. I arrived early in the morning – perfect timing to witness the daily macaron-making process firsthand.
As I stepped into the workshop, I was greeted warmly and promptly served what turned out to be one of the strongest espressos I’ve ever sipped! Perched on a wooden stool with my camera in one hand and that potent caffeine shot in the other, I watched in fascination as the skilled bakers worked their magic.
The caffeine jolt turned out to be exactly what I needed to steady my hands as I captured the mesmerizing process in photos. There’s something almost meditative about watching these artisans at work – the precise measuring, the gentle folding of ingredients, the careful piping of each cookie onto baking sheets. The patience and precision handed down through generations was evident in every movement.
What struck me most was the pride the bakers took in maintaining tradition. In an age where innovation often overshadows heritage, these dedicated artisans celebrate a recipe that has remained essentially unchanged for centuries. It’s not just about making cookies; it’s about preserving a piece of French culinary history.
Simple Ingredients, Serious Flavor
What’s amazing about these traditional macarons is how basic the recipe is. We’re talking just THREE ingredients: almonds, sugar, and egg whites. That’s it! No food coloring, no fancy fillings, no fuss. Just pure, almond-y goodness that’s remained unchanged for over 400 years.
The result is a humble cookie with a crisp exterior that gives way to a delightfully chewy center. The flavor is nutty, sweet, and completely irresistible!
Experiencing Saint-Émilion Macarons on a River Cruise
Looking to taste these historic macarons? A Bordeaux river cruise along the Dordogne and Garonne rivers is your best bet. Major lines like Viking, AmaWaterways, and Avalon Waterways all include Saint-Émilion stops on their itineraries. These 7-10 day cruises typically depart from Bordeaux and wind through the region’s celebrated wine country, with day trips to the UNESCO-listed medieval town where you can explore ancient streets, visit wineries, and savor those famous cookies.
If you find yourself wandering the cobblestone streets of Saint-Émilion (and you absolutely should), don’t miss “Les Macarons de Saint-Émilion” on Rue Guadet. This charming shop with its distinctive red and white awning has used the original nun’s recipe since 1930. Expect a line and to have a bit of a wait, or plan to arrive early or book an excursion through your cruise line. But trust me, these treats make perfect souvenirs. After all, what’s a vacation without bringing home something delicious?
Beyond the Macaron
While the macarons alone are worth the trip, Saint-Émilion is a feast for all senses. The town itself looks like it jumped straight out of a fairy tale with its narrow streets, limestone buildings, and jaw-dropping monolithic church literally carved from solid rock. And let’s not forget the wine! This region produces some seriously impressive reds that pair beautifully with… well, more macarons!
A river cruise that includes Saint-Émilion gives you the perfect mix of foodie adventures, wine tasting, and historical sightseeing – all while only having to unpack once while river cruising. Win-win!
So the next time you see those colorful, ganache-filled macarons in a bakery window, think of the original almond cookie that has been a Saint-Émilion specialty for over four hundred years. Trust me, once you try the original, you’ll understand why some traditions are worth preserving.
Planning a Bordeaux river cruise, I want to hear all about it! Happy travels (and happy eating)!
