Starting a journey slowly makes all the difference. While many travelers rush from airport to cruise ship, we’ve learned that building in a few days at our initial port city transforms the entire experience. It gives us time to shake off the jet lag, adjust to the new rhythm, and truly get to know a place before we set sail.
So before our cruise down the Douro River, we booked three nights in Porto. That decision led us to one of our most delicious adventures yet: a hands-on pastel de nata cooking class with C + D Porto Tours.
A Rainy Spring Afternoon in Vila Nova de Gaia
Porto greeted us with characteristic spring weather: moody skies and steady rain. Instead of fighting it, we embraced it. We spent the morning exploring the famous Lello bookstore, and I’d found the perfect rainy afternoon activity to follow it up: a pastel de nata cooking class with C + D Porto Tours. It was held in a cozy private kitchen just a short way across the Douro River in Vila Nova de Gaia.
As we crossed the river walking over the Dom Luís Bridge, Porto’s iconic skyline fading behind us through the drizzle, we had no idea we were about to uncover the buttery, flaky secrets behind Portugal’s most beloved pastry.
Welcomed Like Friends
The moment we arrived at the small kitchen, we were welcomed with the two essentials of Portuguese hospitality: wine and coffee. Our instructor, Jose (though he went by “Zé”), was warm and passionate, the kind of teacher who makes you feel like you’re learning a family recipe rather than attending a formal class.
The kitchen was intimate, just the right size for getting hands-on with every step of the process. This wasn’t a demonstration-only pastel de nata cooking class. We’d all be making our pastries completely from scratch, with each of us taking turns behind the stove and getting involved in every stage of preparation.
The Butter. So Much Butter.
Let me be clear about something: if you’ve ever wondered why pastel de nata tastes so incredibly rich and flaky, the answer is butter. Lots and lots of butter. Zé taught us his technique: cut the butter into cubes, coat them with flour, then use the heel of your hand to press each cube flat. Layer after careful layer, I understood why these pastries are so irresistible. It’s butter!
We learned the proper folding technique, how to achieve those delicate, crispy layers. The dough gets rolled into a tight spiral log, then chilled and sliced into disks. It’s a bit like a cup-shaped croissant.
The Secret Weapon: Egg Tart Molds
Another revelation? You really do need proper egg tart molds to shape the dough correctly. Those little metal tins aren’t just traditional; they’re essential for being able to rotate the tin while pressing in the dough.
Basically, you place each disk of spiraled dough cut-side down into the mold, let it soften until it’s pliable, then use your thumbs to press straight down into the center of the spiral. We each took our turn, carefully pressing and smoothing the dough against the bottom of the molds until it was thin, then working it up the sides to create a raised lip. The pastry bottoms should be thinner than the sides, Zé reminded us as we worked.
Everyone got involved, pressing dough into molds while others prepared the custard filling at the stove. The collaborative nature of this pastel de nata cooking class made it feel less like a lesson and more like cooking with new friends.
A Custard Worth the Effort
While some of us shaped the pastry, others learned to make the custard. One surprise ingredient? Whole lemon peel. Zé added strips of lemon zest to the custard as it cooked, infusing it with bright citrus notes before removing them prior to filling the molds. This is authentic Portuguese technique, he explained. Vanilla, he told us with a smile, is a Spanish addition found in Spanish custards, not traditional Portuguese pastel de nata.
Throughout the process, Zé wove in Portuguese history and storytelling, even teaching us to count in Portuguese as we worked. We took turns at the stove, whisking constantly to get that perfectly smooth, creamy consistency.
As we carefully filled each pastry shell about three-quarters full with the cooled custard, the kitchen filled with the warm scent of cinnamon and lemon. Rain continued to patter against the windows, but inside we were warm, engaged, and already dreaming of that first bite.
Worth Every Moment
When our pastries emerged from the oven, golden and bubbling, with those characteristic dark caramelized spots on top, we couldn’t have been more proud. Zé sprinkled them with cinnamon while they were still warm, and we gathered around to enjoy them with strong espresso, the traditional Portuguese way.
Were they as perfect as the ones from the famous pastelerias? Perhaps not. But they were ours, made with our own hands, and they were absolutely delicious.
That rainy afternoon in Vila Nova de Gaia became one of the highlights of our Porto stay. It reminded us that sometimes the best travel experiences come from slowing down, embracing unexpected weather, and diving deep into local traditions.
By the time we boarded our cruise down the Douro, we weren’t just well-rested and jet lag-free. We carried with us the taste of Porto, the warmth of Portuguese hospitality, and a new skill we’ll have to try at home.
Planning Your Own Pastel de Nata Cooking Class
If you’re heading to Porto, I highly recommend booking a pastel de nata cooking class with C + D Porto Tours, or looking for it as an excursion with your river cruise. The hands-on experience of creating these iconic Portuguese tarts from scratch is unforgettable. Plus, you’ll never look at a pastel de nata the same way again once you understand the butter-intensive labor of love behind each one.
Travel Tip: If you’re planning a cruise or multi-city trip, consider arriving a few days early at your starting point. Those buffer days offer more than jet lag recovery. They’re your opportunity to create meaningful connections with a place before moving on to the next adventure.
