On our Viking Cruise along the Rhône through Provence, one of the optional excursions was to visit an olive oil farm and mill. Loving food as much as we do, we were excited for this day trip. After a morning walking through Arles, and lunch in the Aquavit Terrace, we joined a group for a drive out to the countryside to learn about olive oil.
The drive out to the countryside unveiled itself like a Van Gogh painting as we approached the village of Fontvieille. Sandy-colored homes with weathered Provençal blue shutters dotted the landscape, while wild red poppies danced between ancient olive groves under the warm May sun. Our destination: the historic Saint Jean Mill, a family-owned olive operation that has been pressing liquid gold from these groves for generations.
Saint Jean’s Olive Mill
Housed in a traditional mas – a quintessential Provençal farmhouse – the Saint Jean Mill stands as a testament to the region’s deep-rooted connection to olive cultivation. Our host, whose family has tended these trees for generations, welcomed us with the warmth characteristic of southern France. As we walked through the grove, she shared fascinating insights into the olive trees’ characteristics, each one shaped by decades of careful pruning and Mediterranean winds.
The mill itself tells a story of tradition meeting modernity. While the methods have evolved, the family’s commitment to quality remains unchanged. The ancient stone wheels and wooden presses stand alongside modern equipment, bridging centuries of olive oil production techniques.
Provençal Tapenade
The true highlight came during our tasting. We sampled their exceptional olive oil, its peppery finish lingering pleasantly on the tongue – a sign of high-quality, fresh pressing. But the star of the show was their traditional Provençal tapenade, a savory masterpiece combining briny olives, capers, and anchovies with sharp garlic, all bound together by their house-made olive oil. Each bite captured the essence of Provence. (And honestly, I can’t wait to try making this at home.)
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Our afternoon continued in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where 17th-century mansions line the streets like an architectural museum. The town’s charm was immediately apparent, but time felt frustratingly short. Just as we were beginning to lose ourselves in its winding streets and quaint shops, it was time to return to our ship.
The weather had transformed dramatically since the beginning of our Rhône River journey just days before. We’d started our cruise bundled in jackets while visiting a truffle farmer, but now, further south, the May afternoon had blossomed into full summer heat. By the time we returned to our Viking ship, we were thoroughly exhausted from the day’s adventures and eager for a refreshing drink on deck.
As I sipped an ice water, watching the late afternoon sun cast long shadows across the river, I couldn’t help but reflect on how this afternoon embodied the heart of Provençal life – a deep respect for tradition, a love of the land, and the simple pleasure of sharing good food with new friends. Though our time in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence felt all too brief, it left an indelible mark. And that’s one of the things I love about river cruising – discovering lesser-known places that I want to travel back to and spend more time in.
